Valpariso

23 to 27 March

We arrived at our hostel, Casa Bella, around 2pm. After checking in, Kitty slept off her hangover from the night before while Lawrie worked out how to access photos (virus, remember!). That night we tried to find a local hotspot, Casino Social JJ Cruz, which we found down a dodgy looking ally. We decided to get backup before trying there again, eventually finding some dinner and walking back to our hostel. Given it was nightime, we couldn´t really get a feel for the place, which made us slightly edgy walking around.

On Thursday we joined the 12pm walking tour of the town. This was a good way to get our bearings and check out some areas we wouldn´t have easily found. One of the Ascensors had a slide on top, which Lawrie took delight for a slight adreneline rush.

Valpo is coming alive with street art

Bobby, our guide at the start of the tour.

The murals are super detailed.

Looking down from the cerros.

The hills are super steep, reminding us of San Franciso

This was in ¨The Amazing Race¨

Pablo Nerudas other house.

This Restaraunt had a great view

Artwork along the streets.

Mosiac tiled seats

Looking back uphill to a church.

Our tour group: Kora, Kitty, Elisa, Lawrie & Diogo.

This artist is painting the city.

Looking down an Ascensor.

The city is reviving with vibrant colours.

Bobby on the slide.

Lawrie having a go (2nd time!)

The streets twist and wind down the hills.


Kitty with more modern art!


The walk took around 3.5hrs, after which we were invited to go grab a few beers with our guide, Bobby, who had mad Brazillian Capoeira skills (apparently, that´s what the locals thought even though he was American).

We partook in many local dishes, beers (Escudo), Pisco Sours at a cool retro pub before making our way back to JJ Cruz to eat Chorrillana, a Chilean dish of meat, eggs, cheese on top of chips (for Lawrie anyway). The night was great fun, with impromptu Karaoke, more beers and singing.

Friday we relaxed, slept and watched movies.

Saturday morning, Lawrie went on a harbour cruise across the bay and back, the weather was perfect and the nice warm sun was welcome.
The tour boats in the harbour.

Sealion on the bow bulb

He was loving the warm sun and ship


The water was calm, skys clear.

Slinging a forklift
After the boat trip we both walked to town to meet up with Acsa and Jon. We had a great lunch at a little seafood restraunt, tried to get Lawrie´s parents´ neighbour Roger a firefighters patch (they couldn´t swap on the weekend, sorry!) before walking off lunch among the Cerros, checking out local artworks.


The weather stayed great for our walk across the cerros.

After our walk we caught the bus to Vina de Mar, located just up the coast. We walked North along the beach, the girls getting caught when a wave washed up through the creek! The water here is very cold, so while lots of people sunbake and enjoy the beach, not many swim! We got some very yummy icecreams and walked to Las Salinas, before catching a bus back and relaxing with a movie.

On Sunday we checked out the local antique markets, before heading back to Vina Del Mar to meet up with friends from uni, Brett and Helen. They´d been travelling for 5 weeks in South America and it was really good to catch up, their trip much faster paced and planned than ours! We had a few coffees before meeting up with Diogo and Sussan from the hostel and heading north, with the intention to sandboard and check out Con Con. The bus took us along the coast before heading inland, so we freaked out a little and jumped off. Not knowing where to go we walked the wrong way for five minutes before getting the right directions. Lunch was on a rooftop terrace, overlooking the bay at South Con Con. Again, Lawrie got a great seafood dish, Arroz de Marisco, Kitty settled on Papas Fritas (chips).


Tsunami egress route!
 
View from our table at lunch.

Lawrie´s lunch, super tasty!

We were all well fed so just headed back to Vina Del Mar, bypassing sandboarding. We said goodbye to Brett and Helen, stopped off for a beer at a local pub, then headed home to pack up and get ready for our 2130 bus.

Santiago

18 to 23 March
We arrived in Santiago at around 8pm, getting a van from the airport. This made our first South American experience easy. We had been traveling for around 30hrs, driving from Vegas to LA, waiting at the airport from 5pm until 2am, flying to Panama, waited again then flew down to Santiago.

Saturday, we awoke after a big sleep, grabbed a late breakfast at Cafe El Naturalista before heading to Plaza de Armas, to join a walking tour. It turns out that Chile has extended its daylight savings to assist in reducing their current energy crisis, unfortunately Apple didn't know this so we spent the morning running behind time! Luckily we could join the 3pm tour. So we went watch shopping, kitty found a watch and we went through the famous fish markets and markets on both sides of the river.

Start of the walking tour - Plaza de Armas

Presidential Building

An older building - only the good ones survive the earthquakes!

Modern Santiago architecture reflects the old aross the city

The tour took us all around the city and our guide gave us some really interesting history on the city and allowed us to get our bearings. We finished the tour near Pablo Nerudas house, near the uni district around 7pm and grabbed dinner, tasty local dishes of meat and beans.

Cerro Santa Lucia - park in the middle of the city

Gardens in Cerro Santa Lucia

Green Building

The buildings are very cool, people waving for the photo!

This was built to look like a mobile phone and charger.

On Sunday needed to do some washing and blogging so we set off to do a load. The laundromat was very modern with TVs and wi-fi but was expensive, separate loads will do that! Obama was in town and we heard protest marches and jet fighter planes overhead, the sound setting off many car alarms. Lawrie went in search of somewhere to upload photos, trying 6 places (we now know the SD card picked up a virus or two somewhere!). Lawrie gave Kitty some dodgy directions and without good Internet access, maps or phones we didn't know where eachother was. Eventually we met back up a our hostel, a little grumpier than before.

The museums in Santiago are closed on Mondays so we spent the day walking around and up both of the hills to get some exercise and enjoy the views. It's a pity that the air was so polluted as this detracted and limited visibility. We did see some positive steps like LED lighting, green buildings and a plan to clean up the river.

Cannon on Santa Lucia (which was once a fort)

View of the Santiago skyline

A modern take on the ¨green¨ building

The park is right in the centre of the city, popular at lunch time for snogging.

The water features get filled up in winter, to stop kids swimming in them.

Lawrie in front of a man made waterfall.

Looking down the Ascensor up Cerro San Cristobal. 

View back to Santa Lucia


On a clear day the views would be amazing.

Rio xx looking back to San Cristobal
On the walk down Lawrie found a watch on the trail, nobody was around so we'll call it a freebie! We had the largest meal ever in Providencia, a well to do suburb. Kitty got worried when the waitress said that she´d bring a plate to share Lawries order of Fajitas. This took us a number of hours to finish, with some local beers to wash it down.

Walking back we followed park beside the river until the police moved us further away. We saw more and more police then heard a few people saying that Obama was coming. Eventually we saw a couple of big limosinses and Lawrie saw Obama in he back of one!

Tuesday we started out at the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art, the works were all beautiful and you could really see the evolution of the same theme through time.

After the museum, we walked to Pablo Nerudas house to do a tour, which luckily, was in English. He led a very interesting life and had a very eclectic taste in furnishings. While he loved the sea, designing his houses with nautical aspects (including a sloping, creaking floor to mimic a ship rocking at sea), he didn´t spend any time on the ocean. His poetry, political life& death are all important aspects of Chilean history. Kitty bought a copy of one of his poetry books.

Pottery Totem

Beautiful & so detailed

For smoking use.

Very detailed!

That night we headed to the uni area again to grab some dinner and beers. Kitty started a conversation with the table next to us, meeting Acsa & Jon in the process. They are locals to Santiago, so we spent some time chatting about Chile and life in general. Acsa was heading to Valpariso to do a diving course on the weekend, so we planned to catch up for lunch.

Jon & Acsa

Us at the bar.

New friends, dinner over!
Wednesday we awoke feeling very dodgy and caught the subway to the bus station, luckily the Valpariso bus left straight away & we had no issues getting there!